Straight-shooting Greek flavours, an upbeat room, BYO: this buzzy Subiaco eatery has all of the makings of your new favorite restaurant.
Woman of Ro
Greek$$
We have to discuss in regards to the soufra at Woman of Ro: the continental European restaurant in Subiaco that resurfaced in Might after a brief hiatus.
We have to discuss these wispy ruffles of crisp phyllo pastry. We have to discuss in regards to the comforting, just-sweet-enough custard that will get poured into the cake and soaks into mentioned ruffles like Brylcreem into hair.
And we have to discuss how these two buds, ably assisted by the sweetness of crushed pistachio and cinnamon sugar, deliver the most effective out of one another, Rocky Balboa and Apollo Creed type.
However most necessary of all, if we’re going to lionise one in all Perth’s most high-profile muffins, then we additionally want to speak about Despina Tanner: the Greek-Australian prepare dinner that launched our metropolis to the thrill of this twice-baked custard pie through landmark addresses resembling John Avenue Cafe, Boucla and, in fact, Woman of Ro.
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Do you keep in mind consuming Tanner’s soufra – or ethereal chocolate ricotta cake; or Sicilian-style apple tart; or any of her different baked glories – at these well-known locations?
Then I believe you’ll recognize the present iteration of Woman of Ro: two animated, tightly packed rooms which are low of sunshine, however excessive of quantity because of friends which are absorbed in dialog reasonably than their screens.
The kitchen offers it to us straight. Dishes will not be deconstructed, reconstructed or obstructed, however as marketed.
Saganaki is fried handmade haloumi hit with honey. Crisp and floury potatoes are lifted with the intriguing perfume of za’atar. Quick-moving workers hustle and bustle.
In brief, at this time’s Woman of Ro has a lot in widespread with the neighbourhood eatery that Tanner and her husband Brian unveiled in 2014.
An operation in thrall with the algorithm this isn’t. Somewhat, this can be a place that calls to thoughts what eating places have been like again within the day, largely as a result of it’s being run by Jaycinta Zammit, Paul Zammit and Daniel Goodsell: hospitality veterans that know back-in-the-day very nicely.
(The Tanners, in the meantime, have left the constructing and now dwell on Kastellorizo: the Greek Island Despina and most of Perth’s Greek neighborhood can hint their lineage to.)
Smart heads know to not mess with profitable formulation. Right here, which means family-style eating and retaining established dishes that administration ought to most likely scribble on blackboard menus in paint reasonably than chalk.
Good-sized octopus is slow-cooked in olive oil after which blackened on the kitchen’s hardworking charcoal grill.
Braised lamb shoulder is one other benefactor of the twice-cooked therapy and rightly thought of one other signature. (The chook, sadly, was overcooked and beneath seasoned on my go to.)
Whereas Woman of Ro identifies as a continental restaurant, the location’s Greek heritage stays robust.
Though Hellenic delicacies is synonymous with lamb and seafood, a lot of my highlights at Woman of Ro have been plant-based in nature.
The char and murky sweetness of well-charred cabbage suggests greens profit simply as a lot as any protein from the two-stage braise and grill therapy.
Terrific dips make already pleasing pita bread much more fascinating. The meagre sounding “village eggplant” hints little on the rush of savour unlocked by grilling complete eggplants and pink capsicums raw-dog on coals and mixing them with the honeyed sweetness of slow-cooked garlic.
The fava dip, in the meantime, is made not of dried broadbeans, however yellow chickpeas patiently cooked until they give up right into a dense, creamy vortex of flavour.
Whereas present administration have retained plenty of the OG’s DNA, they’ve additionally discovered moments to inject themselves into the story. Urns, tablecloths, plates and different heirlooms from Jaycinta’s Italian grandmother really feel proper at dwelling on this homely area. Her husband, in the meantime, has been quietly streamlining dishes.
(Whereas Paul hasn’t instantly referenced his Maltese heritage, his hefty gogges – consider them as Greco ricotta gnocchi – have been impressed by his college days in Sydney’s multicultural Redfern and swapping lunch packing containers with the opposite children.)
Though seasoning can often drift, generosity is the identify of this kitchen’s sport. Extra is extra. Flavours are uncomplicated, but not uncouth.
I by no means acquired to eat my Indonesian-Chinese language grandmother’s cooking when she was in her prime, however eating at Woman of Ro chimes with plenty of what I think about dinner cooked by yiayia – the Greek phrase for grandmother could be like. (Yiayia’s Desk, in the meantime, is the apt identify of the value-packed $88 set menu which will get you a heroic, Iliadic amount of meals).
Because it was from the start, BYO remains to be accessible and feels particularly welcome in these price-conscious instances. Even higher, Goodsell’s ardour for wine shines by within the service: good glasses, cute coolers and a real enthusiasm that means he simply needs you to get pleasure from your self reasonably than attempt to promote you one other bottle of claret.
Whereas Goodsell’s focus is on the now, he (and the Zammits) are additionally trying to the longer term and have recruited some younger, however promising skills. Admittedly, the present nature of hospitality usually requires venues to rent inexperienced workers, however based mostly on the meal I had, this shade of inexperienced is fairly good.
Might there be a possible future custodian of Woman of Ro among the many crew? Possibly. Possibly not.
Regardless, it’s reassuring to know that newcomers are studying and being taken beneath the wings of trade veterans and getting what looks like stable on-the-job coaching.
Whereas Paul oversees the menu and takes care of getting ready dishes, the kitchen is run by Michaela De Matos in his absence.
The waitstaff transfer with objective and the vim of youth whereas absorbing and absorbing the knowledge of outdated heads. Similar to a sure cake we have been simply speaking about.
The low-down
Environment: A likeable Greek restaurant that hums, sounds and thrills like they used to. Lengthy dwell Woman of Ro!
Go-to dishes: Soufra ($17), fava and cashew dip with pita ($17), gradual lamb with vine leaves ($46).
Drinks: BYO ($12 per bottle).
Value: About $180 for 2 individuals, excluding drinks.
Good Meals opinions are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a assessment or inclusion within the Good Meals Information.
Max Veenhuyzen is a journalist and photographer who has been writing about meals, drink and journey for nationwide and worldwide publications for greater than 20 years. He opinions eating places for the Good Meals Information.